Wool is a natural product and is obtained mainly from sheep. The term “pure new wool” in this context means that the material has been manufactured from 100% new (non-recycled) wool that comes from living animals. Like all animal fibres, the wool fibres of keratin, fibrous proteins are similar to that of human hair and nails. A particularly high-quality form of wool is merino wool, which is derived from merino sheep and is characterised by its particular fineness and softness.
A coat for all occasions
The coat of the Merino sheep is made of light, thin, breathable follicles that make the summer heat bearable. In winter the sheep grows a longer hair layer that protects it against the bitter cold. The fleece of the Merino sheep is very fine, highly crimped, which is used as a warming layer for the animal.
What works for sheep has been adapted for humans: When garments are layered together, the air is trapped in between each fine layer to ramp up the warmth. Your layers lock together like a single lightweight garment. The base layer is breathable, thin and lightweight (approx.150-gram), while the second layer delivers warmth and insulation (thickness from 200 gram). Merino wool is soft and non-itch, it’s warm in the cold and cool in the heat, it breathes to prevent clamminess, and it has a miraculous ability to warn off stinkiness.
These natural properties of the wool fibre we will now discuss in more detail
Why doesn’t merino wool itch?
Wool textiles are known for their excellent insulation properties. This applies to merino wool also. Merino fibres are heavily crimped and have a wave-like structure. Up to forty crimps per centimetre are possible. Its crimped (wavy) fibres also contain millions of air pockets that lock in body heat to keep you toasty. By crimping, there are also fewer contact points between the material and the skin, with the result that less heat is dissipated. Air conducts heat very poorly, this is where the fabric steps in to do the job. The air trapped between the fibres reduces the heat exchange in the material, stores body heat and act as insulation – whether it’s against the winter cold or summer heat.
Why Merino clothing cools in warm temperatures?
Wool regulates moisture balance resulting in balanced body temperature as well. Traditional wicking fabrics let moisture “run through” the fabric because they don’t absorb it. Merino Wool is different. It is hydroscopic, which means it’s capable of absorbing moisture vapour and moving it away from your body, while at the same time repelling liquids. It’s also highly absorbent – Merino wool can hold up to 30% of its weight in moisture before it starts to feel damp. That’s unique to merino and merino clothing, making it extraordinarily comfortable to wear in the warmer months of the year!
Why wool warms even when wet?
One of the most amazing features of the merino fibre is that when it
takes on moisture, it uses it to generate warmth. The polar molecular groups of fibres collide with the water molecules, which releases energy. This process works until the fibres are saturated with water molecules. The temperature increase of the material may be up to tens of degrees, depending on the fibre quality, depending on the absorbency of the fibres and the absorption rate.
Conversely, synthetics lose heat when wet. Wool warms so actively as long as it absorbs moisture. To maximise the garments full thermal potential, it makes sense to ensure that the merino garment is completely dry before wearing. However, sometimes it’s hard to say exactly how dry the material really is. A tip on how to dry merino produce completely was given in an interview by the well-known merino manufacturer Devold: place the shirt at a low temperature in the oven (never too hot, as this may harm the fibres), a few hours before going on a hike. If it is suddenly cool on the mountain and starts to rain, you can also wait a moment before putting on a rain jacket, so that the material is slightly damp and then warms well. For multi-day trips, it is also advisable to carry a change of merino clothing in an airtight plastic bag, so there’s no chance of them already absorbing moisture before wearing.
Why doesn’t woollen clothing smell (even after long use)?
Firstly, wool has a scaly surface, which can be thought of as a roof tile. Coupled with the lanolin in the merino fibre, it prevents bacteria from settling and growing much easier than smooth synthetic fibres do. While sweat itself has no odour, if it remains on the skin, in time bacteria develop and creates unpleasant body odours. Merino reduces the opportunity for odours to generate because it is more efficient than other textiles at absorbing sweat and evaporating it into the air, the fibre protein in the wool, builds the odour-causing bacteria on the skin. The keratin, that is, the fibre protein in the wool, builds the odour-causing bacteria on the skin. The core of the wool fibre consists of two cell types that can absorb varying degrees of moisture, leaving different extents of swelling. The resulting friction process causes a mechanical self-cleaning effect. For this reason, woollen clothing should not be washed frequently.
How to care for merino wool
One of the most frequent questions is: Can I wash merino clothing in the washing machine? Wool is a living material and to a certain degree can be described as self-cleaning, that’s why you can go days without having to wash wool garments at all and often hanging them in the fresh air suffices. The ideal is airing in humid weather, as the water vapour in the air expels dirt and nasty odours. For maximum enjoyment of your wool clothing, it’s best to allow your wool garment to rest a day between each use, its wool fibres will regain their natural elasticity and resilience.
When the thought of washing wool comes to mind, an image of a shrunken felt sock pops up. Contrary to popular opinion most manufacturers of merino clothing recommend against hand washing, as more often than not, the wool becomes too hot and the wringing and kneading becomes too mechanical. Wet wool is very sensitive to mechanical effects and as a result, could cause shrinkage or pilling.
Special features of the wool fibre make it possible today that merino clothing can be washed as normal in the machine. Merino products are very easy to care for. Washing instructions should be followed by each manufacturer as to the varying degrees of fabrics and treatments.
Merino in the washing machine
In order not to destroy the sensitive structure of the fine wool fibres, it is important to consider a few reminders when using the washing machine: You should only use detergents that do not contain plasticizers, such as enzyme proteins. Some wool washing agents contain these enzymes are often made for coarser wool. Merino fibres have a different, finer structure than conventional wool. Plasticizers may split and damage the protein molecules of the sensitive merino fibre. A faster wearing down of the garment is the result. In addition, enzymes lead to a swelling of the fibres, making the clothes lose their shape, and allowing fibres to become matted. A pH-neutral detergent without softener is recommended Also good are biological detergents with no artificial additives. Do not use bleach or fabric softener under any circumstances (your merino wool couldn’t be any softer).
Wash cycles can be found in the brand manufactures different specifications, ranging from wool or hand wash program to the normal cycle at 30 or 40 degrees. Icebreaker recommends that the best way to avoid pilling is to wash the garment with a coarser fabric such as denim jeans (ensure all zippers are closed). This is due to the fact that merino is a staple fibre and the shorter fibres are working their way to the surface of the fabric. The fabric will improve overtime as the shorter fibres are removed. Merino clothing should not unless explicitly stated, be placed in a dryer. Ideal drying for maintaining the shape is to spread out the garments on a flat surface or drying in the fresh air.
Merino mix in functional clothing
Merino wool can come in useful as a base-layer, as it does as a mid-layer in the form of a fleece jacket or jumper and with modern technology and design, it even comes in a third layer, as in Ortovox’s Guardian Shell, the world’s first hardshell jacket and pants with all-over merino lamination on the inside. Today’s top manufacturers have fused nature and technology to create merino layers for the outdoors, for performance sports, and for the city, merino fibre is often combined with other, partly synthetic materials to create innovative products that combine the functionality of natural and synthetic fibres and also enhance the effects of merino. Base layers are still true to their origins and garments are still made from 100% wool (for example underwear by Devold), however, even here, almost all manufacturers, blend other fabrics into the wool.
A blend of materials with synthetic fibres enhances even further the comfort sensation on the skin, a great option to have especially for people with a very sensitive stimulus perception. Icebreaker adds a small percentage of elastane, for example, to its merino base layers. This gives them not only an optimum contoured fit but makes the garment resistant to mechanical stress due to its elasticity. Ortovox enhances the cooling effect and the breathability of the merino fibre in the summer and supplements its shirts and trousers with the “Merino Cool” – and “Rock’n’Wool Cool” series, which use a naturally cooling fibre called Tencel as well as a proportion of polyester. The mid-layer Ortovox polyester combined as an exterior material with a merino layer on the inside makes Merino fleece products amazingly robust with all the benefits of merino wool, like odour-resistance and moisture transport.
What else should one know?
Merino wool, unlike other fibres, is flame retardant. Unlike synthetic fibres, you needn’t worry when sitting around the campfire. Depending on the density and weave, merino wool has a natural sun protection factor of up to 50. In addition, merino wool is anti-static as opposed to synthetic materials.
Are there any downsides to wool?
Wool is a 100% natural and renewable resource. The sheep can be sheared up to twice a year. In addition, wool is biodegradable and guaranteed to function without any chemical additives, as the “technology” is contained in virtually every fibre. Since wool products must be washed less frequently due to their self-cleaning function, this also shows a positive effect on the environment.
But there is also a downside to wool. There are now many many places in the world that breed sheep, a large part graze in Australia and New Zealand, South America and South Africa also contain merino farms. In particular, the Australian wool industry is however criticised for the painful treatment that the animals must undergo to prevent parasite infestation – the so-called mulesing. Responsible, respecting animal welfare and quality brand manufacturer of merino clothing oppose this controversial practice by exclusively buying merino wool from certified suppliers where no mulesing is applied. Icebreaker merino has attached code to each product that can be traced to the production process all the way back to New Zealand farms. Ortovox and Devold draw their merino wool from certified farms in Tasmania. The Swedish brand Woolpower turned its back on Australian wool in 2008 and now only buys wool from Merino farms in Patagonia.
Given the fact, there is certainly an advantage that large, well-known brands have a strong influence by controlling which farms they buy their merino wool from. It is always recommended to buy from brand name manufacturers which are committed to quality and ethnically correct wool and which also maintain close contact with the farmers. This is obviously reflected in the price, however, only a strict control of merino wool origin makes it possible to guarantee mulesing-free sheep.
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